Pre-repair condition.
The seperation was clean. Excess glue is removed, and the surface is treated.
Don't lose the bridge!
This bridge has a fixed saddle. It makes the saddle hard to lose, but once you take the saddle too low, the action will be hard to fix.
After the instrument is cleaned, prepped, and taped, the bridge is ready to be reattatched.
The prepped soundboard is lightly scored to create better surface contact with the bridge.
Always use a pad or mat when working on an instrument.
The clamps are carefully secured. One on each side of the bridge.
Use a piece of plywood between the clamp and the bridge for security and protection.
This is the end result. Just like new!
No seperation, and good contact for good tone.
This instrument will be good to go for years to come.
After the repair is complete, the instrument is cleaned and polished.
Aloha,
This is a new feature for the blog. I will slowly be introducing different aspects of the ukulele world. This will be my first segment to deal with the issue of repair. If you play ukulele long enough, you will deal with repairing an instrument, and it can be confusing and frustrating. I recommend taking the instrument back to the factory where it was made when possible. When that is not possible, go to a trained professional. DIY ukulele repair is usually a recipe for disaster. That being said, we are lucky at PUAPUA to have an in-house pro for repairs.
Here is a Kamaka 60's white label standard in Hawaiian Koa. This ukulele features an all koa construction with koa neck and bracing. Rosewood fingerboard and bridge. Single panel construction. This instrument was suffering from bridge seperation. The seperation was clean, and a bridge reattachment was possible. I hope that everyone finds these variety segments interesting. Please feel free to let me know if there is an aspect of the ukulele world that you would like me to explore in more detail. Mahalo. Tyler
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